The Sewaholic line of patterns is specifically designed to fit and flatter pear-shaped woman.
I am pretty much the opposite of a pear-shaped woman.
My bust is my largest measurement, then my hips, with my waist not much smaller.
But the great results a variety of women are getting from the Belcarra Blouse pattern looked too good to resist, so I jumped in the fray.
Then came the pattern adjustments.
I started by making a muslin of the pattern as it was. It seemed to fit everywhere but the bust. Here is the result, after some slashing to accommodate my figure:
Obviously, I had work to do on the pattern. I made a typical full-bust adjustment, so the front bodice pattern looked like this:
After trying that on, I realized that the bust point needed to be raised. I guess this is pretty common. The way the full-bust adjustment is done ends up creating a dart that does NOT point toward the apex of the bust. You often have to move it, but it’s impossible to know exactly how much to move it until you’ve done the adjustment. From this pattern alteration, I cut a new front bodice piece and replaced the slashed one.
To accommodate these changes, I altered the pattern again.
Now, I think I’m ready to cut out my fashion fabric.
Taking a simple blouse pattern made for a pear and altering it for an apple is a lot of effort, but I think it’s going to be worth it. I had forgotten how nicely raglan sleeves sit on my shoulders, and this is a quick basic pattern. Once I have this pattern perfected, I can sew up a bunch of these basic tops. I’m hoping they will make a good substitute for the cheap knit tops I always buy at Target.
Tagged: Belcarra, blouse, FBA, full bust adjustment, Sewaholic
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