I’m starting to see a pattern here …
With the Separates project wearable muslin for a skirt complete, I’m moving on to another wearable muslin in the same fabric, this time for a princess seam blouse. I was interested in one of Simplicity’s Amazing Fit patterns:
Simplicity 2151 includes four different side front patterns, one for each cup size A through D. The center front piece is cut at different lengths, depending on the cup size. It also includes 1 inch side seam allowances and corresponding 1 inch seam allowances on the sleeves for fitting. And it has what is probably a crazy amount of ease — 4½ inches at the bust and 6¼ inches at the waist!
I’m getting better at analyzing how to alter a pattern from close examination of the pattern pieces, which in this case involved looking at the ease of a couple of ready-to-wear blouses I have whose fit seems about right. The ease of this pattern wasn’t far off of those, so although I really do think it will be too much, I’m not sure how much to take out. I’m also sure the waist needs to be lengthened, but I couldn’t be sure of how much. I even toyed (briefly!) with the idea of making a smaller size, but I decided to keep to my usual size for the shoulder fit.
In the end, there was only one alteration I was confident enough of to make to the pattern: lowering the bust point two inches. It is a wearable muslin, after all.
After my one alteration, I moved on to cutting all the fabric and then cutting out the interfacing.
And that’s when I ran into the same problem I had with the skirt. I goofed up the interfacing! I’m sensing a pattern here.
As I’ve shared before, my favorite part of a project — besides finishing, of course — is sewing the first construction seam. My least favorite part is cutting and fusing interfacing, which probably explains why, after messing up the interfacing on the skirt, I messed up the interfacing on this blouse.
I thought I had just enough interfacing. Turns out I had not quite enough, so I decided to cut the interfacing to be a single layer in the cuffs instead of the folded over double layer the pattern calls for. I carefully laid out all my pieces and proceeded to cut. It was just as I was beginning to cut the second center facing piece that I realized: I didn’t place them mirror image! Gaaah! The only way to regroup was to piece the second center facing:
Once I cut out the fashion fabric, I’m ready to sew. But wait! There’s still all that interfacing to cut and fuse. I just hate that. So apparently I rush through it and just make a mess of things.
At least now that I’ve recognized my pattern, I can make sure to pay attention and maybe even cut it out correctly next time.
Meanwhile, I still have marking and fusing to do before I get to that first construction seam. Drat.
Tagged: bust projection, ease, interfacing, Simplicity 2151, Simplicity Amazing Fit
Don’t you just love those red flag elements of sewing that add tedium? I agree with the whole interfacing bit. I solved some of my issues by making sure I had plenty on hand. Usually I use a lightweight fusible for most projects. So, I bought about a half bolt of black and white. I know, but I hate it when I finally get the urge and some inspiration and can’t follow through. I can’t tell you how many times it happened before the light bulb went on. I keep it in a sealed shrink bag to avoid moisture and/or dust damage. Sometimes I wonder if anyone else has these glitches and you have made me fell a bit better about mine:)
Corinne, that’s the perfect word — tedious! I also use the same interfacing for most projects, and I’d love to lay in a supply of interfacing. It’s on sale 50 percent off this week at Jo-Ann’s, so I may be heading there today.
I just checked my supply recently. I am in good shape. I just have not had much incentive. I miss the pursuit of the good fit, the design elements etc. It has been a tough year but I remain hopeful that I will soon be using up some of that interfacing! Best of luck at the sales.