In my quest for the perfect vintage-style skirt for my Separates project, I found McCall’s 6438.
Although the actual sewn garment looks terrible on the model (Why is she wearing a contour waistband so high on her waist?), this pattern has the elements I wanted:
- A contour waistband, which isn’t strictly vintage but works better on my not-so-hourglass figure.
- A long skirt that’s full at the bottom, but smooth at the waist. (I don’t need any extra fabric there, thank you!)
- A seam at the center back of the skirt, so I can easly change the skirt to a back closure. The better to add side pockets.
Today’s task was to redraft the pattern from a side to a center back closure and create the pockets. First up, the skirt pattern piece:
Next was redrafting the waistband. The back waistband had the underlap extension on the side, so I used the front waistband for my base pattern.
I had to add a seam allowance to the center back line for the left side. I added a seam allowance and 1.5 inch underlap to the right side.
With that done, I moved on to creating slant pockets. I could have used a piece from an uncut pants pattern, but instead I drew it freehand with a few of the dimensions based on the nicely sized pockets from a pair of ready-to-wear pants with a contour waistband that I have. (Don’t you hate pockets that can’t actually hold anything? I at least want my phone to fit in there.) It was easiest for me to envision if I drew all the lines right on the skirt pattern and then traced those to create the separate pieces.
Here are the resulting pieces:
In my head, I know how all this will go together because I’ve sewn a slant pocket before. I THINK it will work just fine. (If you see a flaw in my drafting, please let me know!)
The pattern piece that won’t show on the outside, marked A above, can be done in a lining fabric. I have an idea of using a self piping for the slanted edge. The skirt will be done first as a wearable muslin (some quilting cotton), but I just checked my project bag and found lining fabric, but no zipper.
Now the question becomes: Invisible or regular …
Gemini note (because sewing isn’t everything): I am currently obsessing over the BBC production of Sherlock, gleefully egged on by my friend Kim!