Fit and flattery

I’ve talked about the construction lessons learned during the making of the polka dot top and skirt. After two months of work, I also learned a few lessons about fit and flattery for my particular figure.

❦ Muslins are critical for me to get the proper fit on a closely fitted garment, but they are just as critical for checking proportions. I had to lengthen the bodice on the top, and that necessitated increasing the peplum length. Otherwise, it would have looked tiny. I increased the length of the peplum by 1½ inches, and another inch wouldn’t have hurt. I wouldn’t have even thought of that if I hadn’t made the muslin.

❦ Sleeves cut in one with the bodice are not my best look. My shoulders hunch forward a bit, which throws off the shoulder seam. This can be accounted for pretty easily with a set-in sleeve, but I have never found a successful way to deal with this on a sleeve that’s an extension of the bodice. No more of those, thank you.

❦ Fitted back darts really accentuate my slight case of scoliosis. That was an unpleasant surprise as I looked at the finished garment from the back. I couldn’t see it from the front, but maybe that’s just because I’m so used to seeing myself from the front. My waistline is not parallel to the floor, and my torso slants to one side a bit. I have no desire whatsoever to try to account for this with alterations. That would just be crazy, but a gathered waist might be in order. That’s a pretty easy adjustment to make to a pattern with waist darts.

❦ Big contrasting belts are not for me, but thin matching belts work. I’ve never had any waist definition and gave up belts years ago, but it turns out that if it’s the right kind of belt, I can wear it. That was a nice surprise since belts can be an important part of a vintage look.

❦ Speaking of no waist definition, I learned on the project just before this one that a straight waist, no matter how nice it looks on my dress form, doesn’t sit correctly on me. That’s why I made the polka dot skirt with a period-inappropriate-but-comfortable-for-me contour waistband. It came out a smidge big, but I plan to perfect that waistband and use it for all my pants and skirts.

❦ My tummy, on the other hand, is pretty well-defined. No need for additional bulk in that area, thank you very much. A side-zipper skirt works fine for me. And the next pair of pants I make will have a side zip as well.