Crochet gloves were the inspiration for the trim choice for the polka dot top. Both the neckline and sleeves have facings, so the construction lent itself to a trim insertion at those edges. Today, I put in the crochet edging at the neckline.

I was hoping to use the Clover Wonder Clips to hold the trim in place while I sewed. I thought they would be a perfect choice since pins don’t work all that well with the open lace of crochet. As it turns out, the Wonder Clips have a working depth of 1/2 an inch, and the crochet trim only needed to be inserted into the seam 1/8 of an inch. That didn’t work out too well for my 5/8 inch seam. I’m sure I’ll find a use for the Wonder Clips in garment sewing. I’m going to try them instead of pins for the zipper insertion.

Anyway, today was the neck facing.

First I sewed the trim to the main fabric piece. Then I pinned the facing to the main piece, but I did it a little differently than I’ve done in the past. Usually, I pin the small facing piece face down on top of the larger main piece. It’s easier to work with this way, but this method puts on the outside the piece that will end up on the inside. This time, I put the facing right side up on my dress form. Then I put the bodice right side down on top and pinned everything together.

This was handy for sewing because that put the stitching line for attaching the trim on top where I could see it. This way I could sew exactly on that line to attach the facing.

I trimmed and pressed the seam as usual. Because of the trim insertion, I didn’t understitch. When I turned everything right side out, the facing fell smoothly to the inside. I don’t know why it never occurred to me to do it this way before. I think it made a big difference. Here is the final result:

Voilà! The crochet trim is in at the neckline, and I love the way it looks. If only I had crochet lace gloves ...

Next will be piecing and attaching the peplum, then putting in another invisible zipper. I’m hoping for a better result with that darn zipper this time.

What I learned today: I realized a couple of days ago that since I underlined the top, I probably had no need for interfacing. But I had already fused all the interfacing and facing pieces, so I went forward with my original plan. The faced edges will be thicker than necessary, but I don’t know that there’s any real harm from the extra layer. I will, however, keep that in mind the next time I underline.

Tagged: 1950s, Clover Wonder Clips, crochet trim, sewing, Simplicity 4047, underlining, vintage